Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Italy

I love Italy. Why? Because its reminiscent of African and general Black culture. No, really. I've been twice. Once on a road trip accompanied by a tall blond Scandinavian girl and once on a solitary journey of peace.

I'm a brown skinned girl and at the time I had straight hair. The first time I went to Italy(Summer '07), I expected that my Scand friend would be more well received than me since that's the general reaction that I experience in America. I was wrong. Everyone loved both of us and they were politely curious to who I was and where I was from. Everyone assumed I was African and was very surprised when they heard my American accent. Believe you me it intrigued them even more! Though I am of Nigerian descent that would have been too much to explain and my Italian isn't that good. I found that their loud voices and wild gestures were amusing and comforting at the same time. The men can be pushy, but I'm laid back enough to smile and walk away rather than be affronted. No one was overbearing, in any case.

Anyway, I felt like people were so warm there. My friend and I did a rode trip from Rome to Firenze (Florence), then to Venezia (Venice) and back. As you go more North the people resemble more typical Europeans (In culture and a bit in appearance) but I still found people charming.

My second trip (Spring '08) was much better. I went by myself to a cluster of five townships on the Italian Riviera called Cinque Terre (West of La Spezia). I was informed of this area from native Italians so I knew it was a Jewel and not just a tourist destination. I stayed in the middle town of Corniglia. By the end of my three day holiday the whole town knew my face and my apparent new name "Bellezza Africana" or African Beauty. It was lovely. I "talked" to old men, ate the best pesto pasta in the world, and hiked to each town on the clandestine paths that connected the cities.

I did not see another Black person while I was in Cinque Terre (This is probably why everyone knew who I was.) I did not feel out of place or uncomfortable. The people seem so satisfied with life, that they are not particularly concerned with rude behavior and the such. Thats what I have concluded at least.

I have a passion to visit all of Italy oneday. I have heard the south is even more Black-friendly and cultured. I do believe they have mixed heavily with Africans due to the close proximity. I'll find out and I 'll let you know!

NE

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Monday, March 09, 2009

In China

Recently I travelled through China, Russia and Mongolia. I'm a black female with dreadlocks and was travelling with a white male companion. Before the trip, I was a bit sceptical about Moscow because I'd heard stories about racism/racist behaviour there.

China was a big surprise. I started off in Shanghai, and every where I went I seemed to cause a bit of a stir. I attracted a lot of attention - people staring (blatantly and not even looking away when you catch them), people giggling and pointing etc. Some of the bolder ones came up to me and asked to touch my hair. Some of the not-so-bold ones snuck up behind me and touched/tugged my hair when I wasn't looking. A few asked if they could take my photo and some people wanted to have their photos taken with me.

I even caught people taking photos of me with their mobiles. I just smiled and gave them a joky "I caught you" finger wag.

In Beijing, people were a bit more subtle. Or perhaps I just didn't notice as I was too caught-up in the sites - Forbidden City, Great Wall etc. But I certainly didn't feel as much of a curiosity.

Even when I was leaving China, I seemed to attract extra attention from the officials. I left China by train and so all the passports were collected and checked as a unit before we were allowed to leave the train. Yet as I was about to reboard, I was stopped yet again and asked to show my passport. I'm not sure, but I think it was just a chance to have one more look at me . . . or maybe it was my 'strange' passport.

Since then I've had lots of time to reflect on my experience there and I've spoken to a few people who are experienced with Chinese/Asian life. They've said that it's the dreadlocks (in addition to my skin colour) that would've caused the reaction. Also the timing of my visit was during the October week-long national holiday. During this holiday people from the smaller cities and rural areas in China tend to visit the larger cities - Beijing and Shanghai. So to them, I would be even more of a novelty as they wouldn't have seen the likes of me before.

s3

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